Sustainapparel

               Environmental conservation and sustainability in any industry are some of the most important topics of my generation. For this reason, it is my opinion that we be educated in these topics and be ready to face the challenges they present. While important in all industries, these issues are especially significant in fashion and design. Designers throughout the apparel industry must decide for themselves whether or not to be sustainable. There are two basic schools of thought. The first school of thought advocates the “all or nothing ” approach, which The Designer’s Atlas of Sustainability by Ann Thorpe calls the purist approach.   Another is, “the quick fix” which Thorpe refers to this as the impure approach.  I believe we can learn from both sides and begin to make progress towards a better environment for future generations.  For the Apparel Industry to improve the sustainability of its products there must be compromise amongst the key players such as: designers, manufacturers, government, distributors and consumers.  Our industry currently is unsustainable due to many years of bad practices, and I do not believe we will be able to solve this problem quickly. 

              We learn in Shifting the New Dominant Social Paradigm in the Apparel Industry:  Acknowledging the Pink Elephant by Armstrong and LeHew that the downward spiral toward unsustainability began with the industrial revolution, and the resultant mass-production of products.  Products became much more readily available, which led to a general decrease in pricing and ultimately causing consumer demand to dramatically increase.  This elevated demand created a higher need for the supplies used in the manufacturing of consumer products, which led to an overuse and reduced availability of our natural resources.  A consumer culture was created as a result of the advances in production, which led to consumers quickly disposing of products because they wanted the newer, better model or version.  We are now disposing of products at a faster pace than we can replenish them.  This process then repeats and builds upon itself creating a continuous cycle of destruction to the environment.  Something needs to be done but the question is How? Who? What?

             According to Fashioning Sustainability: Forum of the Future, there are many factors that make it difficult for the fashion industry to change. This includes a cascade of procedures and steps that must be performed in order to attempt to initiate any sort of change in regards to sustainability. It is also extremely difficult to monitor and ensure that sustainable practices are being maintained, but it is vital that we in the fashion industry be willing to step up and be willing to make necessary sacrifices in order to initiate change. The initial reforms must begin with the design itself. The Design Atlas says that today’s definition of a good design is any design that sells.  This does not take into account any environmental or social issues.  A sustainable designer must consider how their design affects the environment from start to finish with questions such as:  What materials they will use and how will the consumer care for them?  Will the farmer use harmful pesticides that could harm himself or his workers?  How is the product dyed?  Will the production line have ‘sweatshops’ where the workforce is underpaid, work excessive hours in dangerous conditions or employ children?  This just scratches the surface of the things one should consider to create a sustainable product.  Fashioning Sustainability explains how the supply chain is difficult to follow and that transparency of operations is key to uncovering the hazardous practices that can occur. For example, PUMA is a company that has launched a long-term sustainable program and they have just introduced new packaging for their shoes.  Check out this video to see how this one decision is positively affecting our environment.  

              Another important factor that needs to be considered is consumerism.  As stated earlier, the consumer has been taught the more you have the better you are.  With this kind of thinking, it is difficult to apply the concept of sustainability.  According to Armstrong and LeHew, a paradigm shift has to happen in the apparel industry for significant change to happen.  Changing consumer habits will not be easy.  I am the consumer that needs to shift my behavior and I know how I love to buy new clothes, but I do believe it is not an impossible task.  Designer Katharine Hamnett used this t-shirt design to bring attention to the plight of cotton farmers in the hopes of inspiring the public to change its buying habits.

                                                                                 

http://www.ejfoundation.org/page676.html

Here is another example of how a major company is trying to encourage change in consumer behavior.  The Disney channel has decided not to advertise any junk food on its commercials during their morning cartoons.  I believe that pressure from consumer groups to fight childhood obesity has had an influence on this decision.  I know this doesn’t affect our industry but we can learn from their lead.  What if Macy’s, a large retailer, decided to only advertise with companies that used organic cotton, what would the result be?

                                                                      

    

 Link to article on Disney: 

http://health.heraldtribune.com/2012/06/06/disneys-      

 new-diet-for-children-no-more-junk-food 

              

             The apparel industry has had many years to establish the hazardous conditions that we see today and there may not be a quick fix to this extensive problem, but there does seem to shift in the way the fashion industry does business and changes are beginning to be made. But this is just the tip of the iceberg.  The industry must now move toward the deeper problems. We must now become conscious of the underlying issues that are not visible from the surface including our habits, practices and behaviors as consumers and pursue further changes to better obtain a more sustainable industry.  This is an achievable goal.  No one would have believed 50 years ago that smoking in restaurants or the work place would be taboo, but they are due to a paradigm shift. The old adage of knowledge is power is extremely applicable in this situation. It is crucial for this topic to get out to the general public. We not only as members of the apparel industry but also as consumers have a responsibility to better understand the importance of sustainability. As we become more knowledgeable about the issues at hand, we will ultimately become better equipped to resolve the challenges with which we are faced.

Here are websites that show you companies that are already trying make a difference:


Patagonia

http://www.patagonia.com/us/patagonia.go?assetid=68400

http://www.patagonia.com/us/footprint/


Nike’s adopted waterless dyeing techniques

http://www.greenbiz.com/blog/2012/02/07/color-it-green-nike-adopt-waterless-textile-dyeing


Levi's Latest Bid for a Greener Pair of Jeans

http://www.greenbiz.com/blog/2010/11/04/levis-latest-bid-greener-pair-jeans

4 Ways Timberland Will Halve Its Carbon Footprint by 2015

http://www.greenbiz.com/blog/2011/10/20/4-ways-timberland-will-halve-its-carbon-footprint-2015

North Face's First CSR Report Reveals Green Goals, Early Progress

http://www.greenbiz.com/blog/2011/11/29/north-faces-first-csr-report-reveals-green-goals-early-progress

http://www.nordicfashionassociation.com/28236/

Target Hits a Bullseye Introducing Sustainability to a Mass Market

http://www.triplepundit.com/2012/04/target-bullseye-view-sustainability-mass-market/

Kohl’s Green Scene  

http://www.kohlsgreenscene.com/